Re: Cat 5 cabling
- From: adykes@xxxxxxxxx (Al Dykes)
- Date: 9 Mar 2006 12:50:01 -0500
In article <cnk01256k6vcoqq08620q8lj2mv6943p0d@xxxxxxx>,
Chuck <none@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Thu, 09 Mar 2006 06:50:41 -0700, jimbo <jimbo62@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
the staring frogs of Southern Iberia wrote:
Have recently moved into 21st century and signed up for broadband.
Couldn't take the heat from the kids anymore and went with cable access.
Desktop now blazes through the web as supposed to but laptop still accesses
with dialup. To set up the laptop with cable I assume I now need a router
and some cat 5 cable.
Preference is toward hard wired vs. wireless. Router is on its way and
now have checked out cat 5 cable through various sources. Is cat 5 cable all
the same? I've seen pink, blue and grey so far. My thoughts are to buy 50 or
100 feet and run it from the router behind the desktop downstairs in the
cellar and back up into the living room coming up through a phone receptacle
box located there. I've got a plate that has connections for both phone and
ethernet cable that I can switch with the existing cover plate on the wall.
Then just plug in a 7 or 10 footer hooking up to the laptop.
Again my question is all cat 5 cable the same?
The various colors are just to identify "what is what" in that tangle
of cables found in some home networks. If you look at the package,
most Cat5e cable says "Exceeds Cat5e Specifications". There is now a
Cat6 cable available, but as far as I know there is little or no
advantage in using Cat6. If Cat6 is available and dosn't cost you a
lot more I would probably install Cat6. My new house has Cat6
installed by the electrician, who said they now use Cat6 for all phone
and ethernet cable runs.
Good luck, jimbo
Jimbo,
There is a major advantage in using Cat6. Cat6 components are easier to
assemble properly, since there's now an extra component (a "load bar") that
helps line up the other components. If you've attached the ends in a Cat5
connector, you'll know the pain of getting all 8 wires properly in sequence,
straight, and untwisted just enough (but not too much).
<http://nitecruzr.blogspot.com/2005/04/making-your-own-ethernet-cables-is-not.html>
http://nitecruzr.blogspot.com/2005/04/making-your-own-ethernet-cables-is-not.html
<http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.aspx>
http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.aspx
Professionals rarely or never install jacks on cables as part of a
project. All the wire they install is termineated in RJ45 sockets via
"110 punchdowns".
Professionals buy patch cables pre-made.
Crimping jacks on cable requires a tool that is expensive (or cheap
crap) and the act of connecting a jack is a major PITA. If you crimp
jacks on two ends and the cable doesn't work, your only recourse is to
cut both ends off (trashing a buck or more in parts) and to try again.
110 punch connections are much easier to do, can be debugged with a
continuity tester and repunched, if necessary.
A 110 punch tool is cheaper than a jack crimp tool and much more
likely to see later use.
Patch cables are stranded cable. Permenant cable should be SOLID.
You should be using SOLID CatX wire between 110 blocks and
factory-made patch cables at each end to conect to your equipment.
Max length runs in the CATx spec call for solid wire. Stranded wire
has a cost in reduced distance.
And, if you are in a building with fire codes or insurance issues, all
permenantly installed wiring should be "plenum rated". This is a very
broad statement, but when in doubt....
Solid cable is generally plenum-rated. Stranded cable rarely is.
--
a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m
Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.
.
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