Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery

Well, I broke down and brought it into a pc tech dude and he told me
to look at the mobo, it's touching metal.

Meaningless. It would have to be some conductive part on the mobo;
wire, solder connection, lead, etc., touching metal to cause a problem.
The mobo material itself is non-conductive and wouldn't cause everything
to quit working if it touched metal.

I told him I didn't see
that but I told my brother that the pc tech is going to tell me that
it's the mobo. Well, that's exactly what he said, he just pointed out
what was causing it.

Which was what? What was shorted out?

So, I guess it was getting shorted out, which is
what I told my friend that I bet there is a short somewhere that is
causing this. BINGO!

Now I think the mobo is shot. One thing that troubles me is that is
was firing up. Usually when there is a short in my experienced that
it won't even fire up. If there is a short, then it doesn't even

IMO you've long passed the point where you are qualified to do anything
further so unless this is just something to play with, it's time to
bring it into a shop or toss it out.

Twayne

start up. This is starting up, and it's just the monitor that's not
turning green on the LED. Oh, wait a second. It isn't firing up the
keyboard when I put it on the onboard or when I put it on the VGA.
When I put it on the default jumper of the BIOS motherboard jumper it
doesn't fire up either. So, probably the tech is right and I was
right telling my brother it was the mobo that was the culprit.
Ok, let move on to the sound card on my Dell 8300. I just opened up
my Dell 8300 main PC in my bedroom and I saw that the sound card was
right next to the video card and I thought I read somewhere to keep
the sound card as far away as you can from the graphics card. If
that's true I've had that right near the video card for over a year
and that's why I always have to move the sound card wire that hooks
up to the input/output into the back of the PC, into the sound card.
was always very touchy. If you moved it wrong or swept up around it,
you'd hear a bunch of back static. Real loud too. I'm moving it away
now just to make sure.
Maybe I'll wait for your response.
Any help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks,
attilathehun1 Have

this is the mobo you said you had......M7VIG 400,
a quick search showed it to have an AGP slot

http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en-us/mb/content.php?S_ID=273

is this your mobo or not???

peter

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"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in
message news:8CA87193-9176-47C8-8641-582B5C1474AF@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
First off, I remember now it was in the add/remove programs where
you uninstall the old video drivers, I think. But I can check that
out later. Lets move on.
Ok, this PC a HP Pavilion 503n doesn't come with an AGP slot. All
the better I think, all I have to do is load up the drivers for
that GeForce FX
5200 and mess things up here so my brother has a cow.
Ok, I dug into my box and found a brand new graphics card I bought
probably
3 years ago. Brand new still in the wrappers. It's an ATI Radeon
9800 Pro and
yes it has AGP 8x/4x. I know this card works. It's brand new too,
but bought
3 years ago so there is the compatibility.
Let me install it and get back to you. Wait, hold on, brb, I'll do
it now. I'm really getting pissed or frustrated here. I put it onto
the VGA connector and the keyboard lights didn't even come on, and
then I switched it
back to the DVI connector, which I've always been using and the
keyboard lights came up when I fired it up. Still nothing on the
monitor, though. Let
me give it another shot with the jumper with it plugged back into
the DVI. I
tried it with the VGA and nothing. BRB
Ok, nothing. I'm just really fed up with this motherboard and whole
mess. I've run the jumpers every which way but loose. NOTHING on
the monitor. At least, it's firing up, but I could've told you it's
not the card. I knew the
128 DDR Nvidia GeForce FX 5200 worked.
What do you think is the next solution. Trash the motherboard. I
did buy another mobo from newegg. com before I read the reviews and
I regret it. I did get a free 512 stick of DDR 400 RAM thrown in
free. It's like I bought the RAM and got the mobo free. I paid
about $55 bucks out the door for all.
Ok, here's the model of the mobo, it's an Elitegroup GF6100-M754
mobo/CPU combo. There is no heatsink and fan assembly included.
That's why I haven't
tried that.
Wait, I'm going to give this a shot. Oh, but I don't think there is
a AGP slot on the board. It's a PCI. I give up.
Tell me what you think.
Thanks,
attilathehun1 Hold on a second, I just went back and read your
message about the 8x and 4x AGP and it bugs me. Anotherwords, this
AGP 8x model ATI Radeon X 1050 card, bought 2 weeks ago from Best
Buy, won't ever be able to be used on the
MIGV7 400 motherboard? If that's the case then the manufacturer is
doing on
purpose. Someone buys a video card, sticks it into his draw for a
year, then
finds out it's not compatible anymore with his new motherboard.
There should
be backward compatibility.
Ok, back to the install of this new card. BRB
I"m right in the procedure of installing it, and I've always used
the CRT monitor on the DVI connector. Anotherwords, I have an
asaptor DVI to VGA and
I always use it if there is a DVI connector on the card regardless
if it's a
flat panel or CRT monitor. Is that correct, or I don't get any
better results
and should just plug it straight into the VGA connector?
Ok, back to the install, brb.

--
attilathehun1


"peter" wrote:

here is website with a detailed explanation
http://www.playtool.com/pages/agpcompat/agp.html
peter

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DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
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"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in
message
news:D64B2D49-C6B8-4C2C-9A5D-0681634439D9@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
The motherboard is a M7VIG 400, that supports AMD processor.
Maybe the motherboard jumper on this motherboard can't be put
back to default for some
reason. When I stick it onto the other 2 prongs or there are 3
prongs, so
when I put it from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 or 2 and 3 to 1 and 2 or
whatever,
it
doesn't even fire up. When I stick it back onto the original
prongs it fires
up, but then the monitor doesn't work.
I had a message up and ready to go, but my brother xed it out and
now I'm
going over this again.
I just now installed a new video card, right out from the box,
and it didn't work either. I'm not going into the model #, I
already went through
a
bunch of model #s and the message got deleted. Maybe that's for
the best.
Ok, a run down. I reseated the RAM sticks, and changed the power
supply but
I have my ideas that it might be the power supply.
I'm going right now to check out the motherboard P1 connector to
see if that is the culprit. BRB and I hope this time someone
doesn't delete out
the
message. OK, brb.
-- The readings on the motherboard P1 connector are wrong, off 2
volts at
least. I'm taking the readings while the computer is turned off,
but the
power supply is on the line, anotherwords in the ready position.
I turn off
the power by flipping the switch to the O, and turn it on by
flipping the
switch back to the ----. You see what I mean. Lets try the
readings with
the
power turned on. BRB Ok, the readings with the PC turned on are
correct on
the molex connectors to the hard drive and CD drive. The P1 mobo
connector
is
reading 3.4 on the orange and 12.06 on yellow, 4.8 on white, 5.3
on red,
but
the green says here it's supposed to be PS_On for the signal but
my multi-meter reads 66.8. The gray is supposed to say Power_Good
and says instead 47 volts. Maybe the multi-meter isn't capable of
reading out Power_Good and PS_ON. Other than those 2 pins.
Ok, I guess I'm ready to dump this PC motherboard and CPU, well,
the motherboard at least. Unless something is shorting out.
That's a possibility.
I changed the monitor too, a couple of times, so it's not that .
Maybe it's
the M7VIG 400 mobo that's the lemon.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
attilathehun1
attilathehun1


"attilathehun1" wrote:

Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
motherboard
battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM
sticks, changed the power supply, changed the video card,
changed the IDE parallel
straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally
took out
the
motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU
chip and
checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the
PC stopped
working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It
worked again
for
a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just
like a flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a
while the next day
you
will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim
out. Tell
tail
signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new
battery checker
device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to
check to
see
if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the
motherboard
that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to
physically
do
anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something
there?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1



.

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