Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery



First off, I remember now it was in the add/remove programs where you
uninstall the old video drivers, I think. But I can check that out later.
Lets move on.
Ok, this PC a HP Pavilion 503n doesn't come with an AGP slot. All the
better I think, all I have to do is load up the drivers for that GeForce FX
5200 and mess things up here so my brother has a cow.
Ok, I dug into my box and found a brand new graphics card I bought probably
3 years ago. Brand new still in the wrappers. It's an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro and
yes it has AGP 8x/4x. I know this card works. It's brand new too, but bought
3 years ago so there is the compatibility.
Let me install it and get back to you. Wait, hold on, brb, I'll do it now.
I'm really getting pissed or frustrated here. I put it onto the VGA
connector and the keyboard lights didn't even come on, and then I switched it
back to the DVI connector, which I've always been using and the keyboard
lights came up when I fired it up. Still nothing on the monitor, though. Let
me give it another shot with the jumper with it plugged back into the DVI. I
tried it with the VGA and nothing. BRB
Ok, nothing. I'm just really fed up with this motherboard and whole mess.
I've run the jumpers every which way but loose. NOTHING on the monitor. At
least, it's firing up, but I could've told you it's not the card. I knew the
128 DDR Nvidia GeForce FX 5200 worked.
What do you think is the next solution. Trash the motherboard. I did buy
another mobo from newegg. com before I read the reviews and I regret it. I
did get a free 512 stick of DDR 400 RAM thrown in free. It's like I bought
the RAM and got the mobo free. I paid about $55 bucks out the door for all.
Ok, here's the model of the mobo, it's an Elitegroup GF6100-M754 mobo/CPU
combo. There is no heatsink and fan assembly included. That's why I haven't
tried that.
Wait, I'm going to give this a shot. Oh, but I don't think there is a AGP
slot on the board. It's a PCI. I give up.
Tell me what you think.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Hold on a second, I just went back and read your message about the 8x and
4x AGP and it bugs me. Anotherwords, this AGP 8x model ATI Radeon X 1050
card, bought 2 weeks ago from Best Buy, won't ever be able to be used on the
MIGV7 400 motherboard? If that's the case then the manufacturer is doing on
purpose. Someone buys a video card, sticks it into his draw for a year, then
finds out it's not compatible anymore with his new motherboard. There should
be backward compatibility.
Ok, back to the install of this new card. BRB
I"m right in the procedure of installing it, and I've always used the CRT
monitor on the DVI connector. Anotherwords, I have an asaptor DVI to VGA and
I always use it if there is a DVI connector on the card regardless if it's a
flat panel or CRT monitor. Is that correct, or I don't get any better results
and should just plug it straight into the VGA connector?
Ok, back to the install, brb.

--
attilathehun1


"peter" wrote:

here is website with a detailed explanation
http://www.playtool.com/pages/agpcompat/agp.html
peter

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"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:D64B2D49-C6B8-4C2C-9A5D-0681634439D9@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
The motherboard is a M7VIG 400, that supports AMD processor. Maybe the
motherboard jumper on this motherboard can't be put back to default for
some
reason. When I stick it onto the other 2 prongs or there are 3 prongs, so
when I put it from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 or 2 and 3 to 1 and 2 or whatever,
it
doesn't even fire up. When I stick it back onto the original prongs it
fires
up, but then the monitor doesn't work.
I had a message up and ready to go, but my brother xed it out and now I'm
going over this again.
I just now installed a new video card, right out from the box, and it
didn't work either. I'm not going into the model #, I already went through
a
bunch of model #s and the message got deleted. Maybe that's for the best.
Ok, a run down. I reseated the RAM sticks, and changed the power supply
but
I have my ideas that it might be the power supply.
I'm going right now to check out the motherboard P1 connector to see if
that is the culprit. BRB and I hope this time someone doesn't delete out
the
message. OK, brb.
-- The readings on the motherboard P1 connector are wrong, off 2 volts at
least. I'm taking the readings while the computer is turned off, but the
power supply is on the line, anotherwords in the ready position. I turn
off
the power by flipping the switch to the O, and turn it on by flipping the
switch back to the ----. You see what I mean. Lets try the readings with
the
power turned on. BRB Ok, the readings with the PC turned on are correct on
the molex connectors to the hard drive and CD drive. The P1 mobo connector
is
reading 3.4 on the orange and 12.06 on yellow, 4.8 on white, 5.3 on red,
but
the green says here it's supposed to be PS_On for the signal but my
multi-meter reads 66.8. The gray is supposed to say Power_Good and says
instead 47 volts. Maybe the multi-meter isn't capable of reading out
Power_Good and PS_ON. Other than those 2 pins.
Ok, I guess I'm ready to dump this PC motherboard and CPU, well, the
motherboard at least. Unless something is shorting out. That's a
possibility.
I changed the monitor too, a couple of times, so it's not that . Maybe
it's
the M7VIG 400 mobo that's the lemon.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
attilathehun1


"attilathehun1" wrote:

Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
motherboard
battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE
parallel
straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
the
motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
stopped
working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
for
a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
you
will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
tail
signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
checker
device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
see
if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
do
anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1

.



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