Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery

here is website with a detailed explanation
http://www.playtool.com/pages/agpcompat/agp.html
peter

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"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:D64B2D49-C6B8-4C2C-9A5D-0681634439D9@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
The motherboard is a M7VIG 400, that supports AMD processor. Maybe the
motherboard jumper on this motherboard can't be put back to default for some
reason. When I stick it onto the other 2 prongs or there are 3 prongs, so
when I put it from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 or 2 and 3 to 1 and 2 or whatever, it
doesn't even fire up. When I stick it back onto the original prongs it fires
up, but then the monitor doesn't work.
I had a message up and ready to go, but my brother xed it out and now I'm
going over this again.
I just now installed a new video card, right out from the box, and it
didn't work either. I'm not going into the model #, I already went through a
bunch of model #s and the message got deleted. Maybe that's for the best.
Ok, a run down. I reseated the RAM sticks, and changed the power supply but
I have my ideas that it might be the power supply.
I'm going right now to check out the motherboard P1 connector to see if
that is the culprit. BRB and I hope this time someone doesn't delete out the
message. OK, brb.
-- The readings on the motherboard P1 connector are wrong, off 2 volts at
least. I'm taking the readings while the computer is turned off, but the
power supply is on the line, anotherwords in the ready position. I turn off
the power by flipping the switch to the O, and turn it on by flipping the
switch back to the ----. You see what I mean. Lets try the readings with the
power turned on. BRB Ok, the readings with the PC turned on are correct on
the molex connectors to the hard drive and CD drive. The P1 mobo connector is
reading 3.4 on the orange and 12.06 on yellow, 4.8 on white, 5.3 on red, but
the green says here it's supposed to be PS_On for the signal but my
multi-meter reads 66.8. The gray is supposed to say Power_Good and says
instead 47 volts. Maybe the multi-meter isn't capable of reading out
Power_Good and PS_ON. Other than those 2 pins.
Ok, I guess I'm ready to dump this PC motherboard and CPU, well, the
motherboard at least. Unless something is shorting out. That's a possibility.
I changed the monitor too, a couple of times, so it's not that . Maybe it's
the M7VIG 400 mobo that's the lemon.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
attilathehun1


"attilathehun1" wrote:

Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032 motherboard
battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE parallel
straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out the
motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC stopped
working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again for
a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day you
will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell tail
signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery checker
device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to see
if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically do
anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1

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